Edith Wilson and the Lalique Brooch

Edith Bolling Galt was the widow of a prestigious Washington jeweler.

The Jeweler’s Wife

Edith Bolling was born in 1872. Her father was a well respected Virginia judge, somewhat down on his fortunes following the Civil War. Edith was also low in the birth order (seventh of nine), ergo her education was somewhat spotty.

Young Edith Bolling.

She was a fine looking albeit “statuesque” woman, about 5’9” at maturity. The practical advice was for her to marry well to assure her future – and maybe even help the family. At twenty, she met Normal Galt, several years her senior. He was a partner in Galt’s Jewelry, long established in Washington DC. Thomas Jefferson had made purchases; Mary Lincoln had been a customer.

They courted for four years, but more in friendship than romance. Finally, at twenty-four, with no other prospects in sight, Edith agreed to marry Norman Galt. The marriage was basically a happy one; Edith considered Norman to be her best friend. The fact that he was very financially comfortable helped, and one can safely assume that anything Edith fancied in the way of jewelry was happily gratified.

Twelve years later, Norman died. He had been sole owner of Galt’s for some time. Edith was his heir. She had developed a good business head, took an interest in the store, but finally agreed to sell it to a few of the Galt employees.

Between Norman Galt’s estate and the sale of the jewelry establishment, Edith was well fixed for life. She had a small, congenial social set; dined out occasionally, attended the theater and concerts and traveled. There is no record of her being romantically linked to anyone.

The Second Mrs. Wilson

Edith Galt, when Wilson first met her.

Six years after Norman Galt died, Edith met President Woodrow Wilson, who had been widowed eight months earlier. His first marriage had lasted for thirty years, and he was devastated by his beloved’s death. Perhaps (as many historians and psychologists claim) he was a man who needed a woman’s nurturing and loving care.

Within weeks of meeting The Widow Galt, Wilson fell deeply in love with her. He was ardent and persistent in his romantic overtures, and Edith, who had never been truly wooed before, was overwhelmed by the attention from the President of the United States.

The happy WIlsons.

Nine months after they met, they married.

For two years, they were on a perpetual honeymoon of happy times – golfing, attending dinners, and shows and enjoying each other’s company. President Wilson had been one of the foremost professors in the country of what today would be called political science, and she began an ongoing education in government, politics, philosophy, etc.

The Great War…and Peace

The First World War was called The Great War (in its own time) to encompass its size, its armies, its scope, its breadth, its material cost, and most of all, its casualty list. It had begun three year earlier in 1914, but Wilson had assiduously tried to avoid any commitment. Finally, repeated hostile events and circumstances forced the US entry into the war. Once America was committed and soldiers deployed, hostilities ended within the year.

It was 1918. Europe-in-ashes, was exhausted. Four empires were toppled (the German Empire, the Ottoman Empire, the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and the imploding Russian Empire). The British Empire was hanging on by threads. The world was a mess.

The serious Wilson.

President Wilson, whose life’s work revolved around international governments, decided to personally lead the US delegation at the peace talks in Paris, aimed to restructure a new world order and a new map of Europe. He brought Mrs. Wilson with him.

Rene Lalique, Artist and Designer Extraordinaire

Rene Lalique.

Rene Lalique (1860-1945) was a French designer of decorative art nouveau jewelry, glass and related objects. He was a contemporary of Louis Comfort Tiffany, in age, in artistry, creativity, his A-listed customer base and price tag. By the end of the Great War, his name and reputation was known worldwide.

Some years before the War, Lalique had crafted a large brooch. It featured eight pale gray-green pigeons artistically perched on a gold tree branch. It was a particularly large piece – some six inches across. This made it too imposing for most women to wear at the usual places for adornment: the neck, the shoulder or the breast. Whether it was because of its size, or its steep price tag, the pin was never sold, nor was it refashioned for reproduction. It just sat among Lalique’s personal collection in his safe.

The Lady and the Brooch

When President Wilson arrived in Paris, he was hailed as a European savior. The American First Couple was lavishly feted and entertained – and gifted. They were paraded and photographed and honored at every turn. The French were extravagant in their hospitality, and designed a magnificent Medal of Honor for the American President.

The Peace Brooch.

In a stroke of marketing and advertising genius, Rene Lalique now re-discovered the six-inch brooch that had been tucked away for several years. Perhaps he surmised that Mrs. Wilson’s statuesque figure was perfect for the large piece of jewelry.

He renamed the pigeons as doves, and the tree limb was rechristened an olive branch, and pin itself now became the Peace Brooch.

When Wilson was awarded his Medal of Honor, Lalique presented the Peace Brooch as a surprise gift to Mrs. Wilson. No doubt the jeweler’s widow appreciated its craftsmanship and value.

The Brooch. Later.

Within months of Wilson’s trips to Paris, he was stricken by a massive stroke. Formal entertaining at the White House ceased.

But in 1920, 48-year-old First Lady Edith Wilson commissioned Seymour M. Stone, a Russian-born artist, to paint her portrait. She was seated, wearing an elegant black and white gown, draped in fashionable folds.

Affixed to her right hip, was the Lalique Peace Brooch, perfectly placed, and doing honor to the lady, the brooch and Rene Lalique.

The painting may be seen at the Woodrow Wilson house in Washington, DC.

Sources:

Anthony, Carl Sferrazza –First Ladies 1789-1961, William Morrow,1990

Foster, Feather Schwartz – Mary Lincoln’s Flannel Pajamas and Other Stories From the First Ladies Closet – Koehler Publishing, 2014

Smith, Gene – When the Cheering Stopped – William Morrow, 1964

Wilson, Edith Bolling – My Memoir – Bobbs Merrill, 1939

https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/a-symbol-that-failed-149514383/

 

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2 Responses to Edith Wilson and the Lalique Brooch

  1. Denise Richline- Layman says:

    oooh what happened to the brooch? I don’t believe I saw that painting when I was at the Wilson house.. but there was a seminar going on and we were there by appointment to look at some specific items that she needle pointed.

  2. Feather Foster says:

    Last I knew (around 5 yrs ago) the portrait was in the Wilson house. Of course it gets moved around – or is possibly on loan elsewhere. The brooch, I believe, is in the Smithsonian.

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